Minneapolis’ most memorable (and messy) meals

If a Hollywood filmmaker wanted to find the Minneapolis bar that most suited the cliché of a warm, friendly, busy local with loads of character, they couldn’t go wrong choosing Matt’s. Timber-panelled walls are lined with vinyl-covered booths beneath retro lampshades, gleaming in the light of beer ads made of vivid neon tubes.

I take a booth with my friend Doug Mack, a local writer, and we both order the same thing: a Juicy Lucy.

This burger (quirkily spelled ‘Jucy Lucy’ on the menu) is distinguished by one thing – the cheese in the centre of the beef patty, which becomes molten when cooked. Matt’s Bar, open since 1954, claims to have invented this local hero when a customer asked for cheese between two patties and hailed the “juicy” result.

While we wait for our burgers, Doug reassures me that this US city’s dining scene is about more than unruly burgers.

“You can get food from all around the world in Minneapolis,” he says.

“The Dakota and Anishinaabe people were the original cooks here, and there are places you can enjoy those foods nowadays. The first white settlers were largely German and Scandinavian, so there are a number of historic beer halls, and a modern Swedish restaurant at the American Swedish Institute.

“Minneapolis has a large Latino population so we have really good Mexican restaurants and taco trucks, and other restaurants from Central and South America. You can also get a lot of Somalian food, and dishes from other East African nations.”

My appetite has been whetted, and our burgers arrive. Doug, though, has a word of warning.

“The key to eating a Juicy Lucy is to give it a minute. When it arrives at the table, the cheese inside is liquid. If you bite into it right away, one of two things will happen: you’ll burn your mouth on the molten cheese, or the cheese will squirt out one end all over your clothes. Or maybe both those things.”

I wait a moment then carefully bite into the burger, letting the juices drop onto the plate beneath. It’s good stuff, a tasty filling lunch that goes perfectly with my pint of Warpigs Foggy Geezer IPA, a craft beer from Indiana.

“Juicy Lucy is a Minneapolis icon,” says Doug, as we sit, happily munching our messy burgers. “And it’s comfort food.”

Following Doug’s tip, I head next day to lunch at Fika, within the American Swedish Institute.

The interior is just what I’d expect from a modern Scandinavian restaurant – clean lines, accentuated with pine.

This simplicity is neatly contrasted with the grand building across the courtyard, the 1908 Turnblad Mansion which was built for a Swedish-American newspaper owner.

The short menu is a tribute to Swedish traditions, with a contemporary touch.

I select for a starter the gravlax, whose salmon comes accompanied by boiled egg quarters, radish, and creamy potato salad.

My main is another fishy option, smoked char with whipped cream cheese on Danish rye.

Accompanying these is a vivid and interesting purple cocktail – a ‘Bloody Swede’ made from aquavit, beet brine and Bloody Mary mix.

They’re all quality creations constructed from simple ingredients. A bit like Swedish furniture.

A final unforgettable Minneapolis specialty is the Tater Tot Hotdish – basically a casserole, though a tarted-up version with tater tots (aka hash brown nuggets) as the crowning glory.

It’s not something you find in restaurants, I’ve been told, more a home-cooked favourite. But I’ve tracked one down at Stray Dog, in the gentrified neighbourhood of Northeast Minneapolis across the Mississippi River. It’s a big old brick building with a central bar and an attractive pressed-tin ceiling; on the door is a sign reading “Dogs welcomed, people tolerated”.

When my meal arrives it’s as messy as I expected, but clearly an upmarket version of the classic dish. In my bowl is a jumble of braised brisket, mushroom béchamel, caramelised Brussels sprouts, parmesan, and truffle oil. And fried tater tots, of course. It’s flavoursome, satisfying, and somewhat unexpected. Just like Minneapolis’ food scene.

Owamni: Stylish restaurant on the banks of the Mississippi, serving contemporary Native American dishes. See:

Tamu Grill: Run by a Kenyan-born chef creating dishes with an East African flavour. See:

Hell’s Kitchen: Serves regional specialties such as beer-battered walleye, wild rice porridge, and maple-glazed bison sausages. See:

Air New Zealand and partners fly via Houston to Minneapolis. See:

Minneapolis can also be reached by Amtrak trains from Seattle or Chicago. See:

Matt’s Bar, see ; Fika, see ; Stray Dog, see

Four Seasons Hotel Minneapolis is a stylish new hotel in the city centre. See: