Hollyford Wilderness Experience: One of the world's best hidden gems is found in Fiordland

Where I'm standing was once under an enormous glacier. It would have been hundreds of metres high.

This massive, slow-moving river of ice would have extended for kilometres right down to the sea. And over thousands of years, it carved out one of New Zealand's most spectacular landscapes: the Hollyford Valley.

Deep in this valley, I’m walking along a path that is so densely packed with trees it resembles a tunnel. All of a sudden, the relative stillness of the forest is shattered.

Two enormous kererū hurtle down the 'tunnel' at high speed. They look like nature's version of a rocket, aiming straight for us.

The birds flap furiously as they try to gain altitude: “whoop, whoop, whoop.” They’re not used to having people in their way.

A split second later, the pair pass centimetres over our heads, with many of us ducking. I feel goosebumps on my neck, as cool air from the birds’ wings rushes down my back. Welcome to a version of New Zealand that few of us ever get to experience.

Most of us have Aotearoa's Great Walks, like the Milford Track, on our bucket list. But I'm here to tell you there's another tramp that needs to go right to the top.

This one not only involves spectacular scenery, but has three-course dinners at the end of the day, a jet boat trip, and even a helicopter ride into Milford Sound. I’m on a luxury hike called The Hollyford Wilderness Experience.

The Hollyford Valley is an enchanting part of Fiordland National Park, but it’s difficult to walk if you do it yourself. That's because it involves the formidable Demon Trail section – which as the name suggests – is recommended for advanced hikers.

However, Ngāi Tahu Tourism offers a superb four-day tour of the Hollyford that makes this trip accessible to novice hikers by using a jet boat to get around the hardest bits. It means one of the most beautiful slices of New Zealand is much easier to reach. And instead of basic DOC huts, you stay in a series of luxury lodges along the way.

Like many, I've long had this trip on my bucket list but was a little confused as to how it works. Here is how our four spectacular days unfolded.

Our Hollyford Wilderness Experience shuttle picked us up from the Rees Hotel in Queenstown, the perfect place to rest your feet for a night or two before and after the trip.

We meet our fellow hikers; a mixture of excited Kiwis and a few from the other side of the world. The mood is buoyant, especially with the weather forecast. Fiordland has a reputation for being one of the wettest places on Earth, but we’re not expecting a drop of rain for the next few days.

After a scenic two-hour trip to Te Anau, we settle in at the Distinction Luxmore for the night, before our pre-departure briefing where we meet our entire group of 14 fellow trampers. The talk is run by our guide Robyn - who is one of those people you just can't help but love the moment you meet them.

We're given an overview of our trip, run through a safety briefing, and then all head out to dinner. Most of us elect for an early night; we have a big walk ahead the next morning.

We meet at 0730am and are all introduced to our lead guide Sue, who is just as welcoming and knowledgeable as Robyn. There are two guides in total, who have a maximum of 16 people on any one trip.

We start an hour-long bus trip into Fiordland National Park. As the mountains get higher, our smiles grow wider.

We pull over for a scenic stop overlooking the valley we're about to walk, and out pops the first snack of the day. It’s a fresh madeleine cake. I can already tell that I'm addicted to luxury hikes. Our guides have large backpacks, and they aren't just carrying a first aid kit and emergency beacons. They're loaded with food.

Before long, we're at the start of the trail with 19 kilometres to cover during the first day. One of the many great things about this walk is that it’s almost all gently downhill, making it relatively easy.

The scenery is instantly spectacular. We enter a wildly contorted beech forest, covered in thick moss and tree ferns. Everywhere we look is a rich blanket of green.

Occasionally the track clears to reveal the emerald Hollyford River, which is lined by the Southern Alps.

Our walk is peppered with fascinating stories of early Māori and explorers who battled some of the country’s toughest terrain to live here. It was a hard life, full of enormous challenges.

I can't help but reflect on how things have changed – how much easier life has got– as I eat a delicious pre-prepared lunch on the banks of the river. My watch soon tells me I'm being exposed to so much noise my hearing could be damaged if it continues long-term. Almost unbelievably, it's referring to the sounds of the cicadas, which are so loud we have to raise our voices to have a conversation.

By 6pm, we reach the luxurious Pyke Lodge, where a hot shower, clean clothes, cold drinks and an enormous cheese platter are waiting.

We are then served a delicious three-course dinner, including venison, before a short walk to see glowworms and giant wētā.

On the way back, we can't help but notice the stars and Milky Way are the brightest we've ever seen.

A small group of us stay outside watching shooting stars, before the gravitational pull of bed becomes too strong.

I set up my camera to record the stars overnight, and by morning we’re shocked to discover it captured the southern lights putting on a spectacular show.

It turns out Fiordland National Park isn't just a kaleidoscope of greens during the day; you might just see them at night too.

We start the morning with a hearty cooked breakfast, and a short walk to the glistening Lake Alabaster. We're much lighter on our feet today because our bags are being transported by jet boat to the next lodge. Once you've tried luxury hiking, it's hard to go back.

We then board a jet boat to head downriver along Lake McKerrow/Whakatipu Waitai. If we were to walk this section, it would take days along rugged terrain. Instead, we cover the hardest part in just an hour or so by boat.

After a morning on the lake, which includes a stop at the long-abandoned settlement of Jamestown, we arrive at a magnificent podocarp forest where our journey continues on foot. This ancient forest looks like it's straight out of an Avatar movie set, with dramatic rimu, tōtara and kahikatea ruling the canopy.

Our guides lead us off the main track, and nobody quite knows why. Without warning, a safari tent comes into view, and it's like finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow. Inside is an elaborate lunch buffet including hot soups, cold drinks and even delicious desserts. It turns out a small team of staff from the next lodge had set up the elaborate affair during the morning.

By afternoon, we reach the coast and one of New Zealand's most remote seal colonies. After a series of photos, we walk to a lagoon for a quick swim before a jet boat takes us to Martins Bay Lodge for the night. Here, drinks, a cheese platter and a three-course meal is waiting.

Tonight's main is Stewart Island blue cod, which has been flown in. We raise a toast to our guides and the trip – I think we all agree it's one of the best trips in the world, and it's not over yet.

After another delicious breakfast, we're back on the jet boat to head to Martins Bay for a five-kilometre coastal walk to learn more about the region's early explorers. We return to the lodge for lunch, before two helicopters swoop in to pick us up.

What's the best way to end New Zealand's best walk? With a helicopter ride into Milford Sound, of course.

We follow the dramatic coastline south before turning into New Zealand’s most famous fiord. I notice one of my fellow hikers has a tear in her eye. It's hard not to get caught up in the beauty of the moment.

We land at Milford Sound Airport, where a bus is waiting to take us back to Queenstown along the Milford Road.

We're all a little tired after a few intense days, but manage to stay awake for the first spectacular hour along the country's most scenic road. There's a pit stop in Te Anau where everyone gathers for a quick drink in a pub to toast the trip of a lifetime. And best of all, you don't need to head to the far reaches of the world to find it. It's right here in our beautiful backyard.

Guests generally start their trip in Queenstown. Air NZ has direct flights from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch. See: . Jetstar has direct flights from Auckland and Wellington. See:

The Hollyford Wilderness Experience bus will either pick you up from the airport, or a Queenstown hotel. You can be dropped off at the end of the trip in the same place. Alternatively, you can meet the trip in Te Anau for the trip briefing.

Flying generates carbon emissions. To reduce your impact, consider other ways of travelling, amalgamate your trips, and when you need to fly, consider offsetting emissions.

The Hollyford Wilderness Experience runs from October to April each year. Prices start from $3595 per person. Spaces fill up fast, so it's best to book early. Prices include coach transport from Queenstown, Te Anau accommodation, three-course dinners, wilderness lunches, jet boat rides, a helicopter transfer, luxury lodges and much more. A warning, you need to come prepared for rain – while we had sun, Fiordland can get very wet. See: