Room review: Posh Pioneers, remote wagon accommodation that comes with a qualified barista

In the backcountry of Kirikau, amidst native bush, there’s an open, flat, grassed area. Six, red corrugated iron huts on wheels resembling pioneering wagons occupy the space. The nearest neighbours are 100km away on one side, 20km away on the other.

On the site of an old homestead, where part of the fireplace still stands, a roofed, deck-type area, with removable plastic sides, sports wooden tables and chairs from bygone days including a chair from the two-storey houseboat Makere which floated on the Whanganui River in the early 19th century.

Attached is a homely, open kitchen where hosts, Heather and Fritz, cook meals for guests. The hutch dresser holds antique china; under the sink bench there’s enamel jugs and heavy ceramic mixing bowls; old-fashioned utensils adorn the walls.

Bathroom facilities, two portable flushing toilets and two gas-heated showers, are located in another corrugated-iron, wheeled hut. With polished wooden walls and wooden bench, the stone basins serviced by de-chromed tapware give it a rustic feel.

The outdoor, hot-water shower, wrapped on three sides by corrugated iron looks out onto a verdant world. Liberating.

With an address of 303c Tawata Road, Kirikau, you’d expect to find Posh Pioneers up a driveway. But that’s not the case. Access is via the Whanganui River.

If driving, call the hosts and let them know you’re on your way and get directions to the pick-up point - mobile reception is haphazard.

Around an hour’s drive from Taumarunui, it’s a scenic, rural drive, with approximately 10km of gravel and river glimpses. Fritz will be waiting in his jet boat for a less than five-minute ride down river. Then it’s a short walk, or six-seater side by side motorbike ride, up a dirt track, part of which was used by the original landowner to take the cream cans down to the river from his homestead.

If paddling the Whanganui, Posh Pioneers can be found on the right, just before, Maharanui Campsite. Or, you can helicopter in.

The six ‘shepherd’s huts’ have been constructed by Fritz, a lot of the wood and corrugated iron coming from the old homestead.

Stepping up on the deck of each and opening the door brought delight. In one, fishing nets, rods and paddles are propped in a corner. Deer antlers and skins on the wall and floor are in another. Each hut has either twin beds or a double with old-fashioned metal or wooden bedheads. Kerosene lanterns hang on walls; small, cast-iron wood-burners sit in corners for colder nights; patchwork or lace coverings top beds with vintage trunks at the foot of some.

Our hut had gorgeous curtains, made from old lace doilies, an antique Singer sewing machine table and a wooden chair. The crisp, white sheets rustled when I turned over and heavy, old-fashioned woollen blankets made me want to stay under the covers longer.

Tucked into a tiny closet-sized space, a portable toilet saves going out into the pitch-black night if nature calls. A light switch is behind the bedhead, as well as USB charging points but there’s no other electrical sockets. This is solar panel and generator territory.

Thick towels and flannels are provided, along with liquid soap, shampoo and conditioner in the showers.

You’re in the wilderness here, deer have sometimes been seen around the huts.

Take a 15-minute, or so, wander up a grassy hillside to the lookout for views over the tree-clustered valley. Stands of lush ponga amongst kahikatea, white-flowering mānuka and other natives resembled clustered umbrellas. The river is a short walk away, and arranged ahead, you can jetboat down to the Bridge to Nowhere.

If you’re feeling creative, Heather holds workshops on soap making, distilling mānuka oil, and balm making from native plants. Or make a knife with Fritz.

Alternatively, take it easy. Toss a horseshoe, play pétanque, croquet, or board games or just laze, with birdsong in the background, and read one of the books available. You might find the time to pose in a pioneer costume and have your photo taken, although the vintage camera with cloth hood is just a prop.

Arriving in the afternoon, we were warmly welcomed with huge home-baked scones, jam and cream served on antique china laid out on a lace tablecloth. Coffee-lovers can enjoy a freshly-made cup from one of the few modern appliances here! Fritz is a qualified barista.

The cheeseboard with camembert and fruit cheese, dried fruits and almonds was enjoyed from our deckchairs at the front of our wagon before the bell was rung for dinner. My steak was cooked just right and served with salad and perfect roast potato, and kūmara cooked in the Gasmate Pizza Oven. There were tasty vegetable patties for my vegetarian friend. After all that, dessert of mini pavlovas, apricots and cream had to wait awhile!

The breakfast chia yoghurt cups with muesli, almonds and apricots were divine leaving me only room for half a slice of Heather’s freshly-baked bread – toasted the old-fashioned way on a metal contraption over the gas burner.

Staying here was like stepping back in time to a simpler world, peaceful and relaxing. The night sky is a mass of sparkling stars. I woke to birdsong as morning dawned. Fritz and Heather are great storytellers and kept us entertained with tales of the Whanganui River and its history, kayakers’ trips, mishaps and rescues.

Nothing! Internet is available for those who really can’t do without it, but why would you want the intrusion of the modern world.

There are a lot of options for staying. Canoeists can stay overnight, with a three-course dinner and breakfast, picked up and delivered back to the river for $210. For those arriving by road, add on $30 for the return jetboat trip.

A two-day paddling package includes canoe hire, safety briefing, pickup and delivery back to the river, two three-course dinners, two breakfasts, one lunch, and return to cars at the end of the trip. With a knife-making workshop included, it’s $964, or $919 for soap-making.

Jet boat down the river to Bridge to Nowhere for $490 per person including lunch. See: