Extract: Kiwi and outdoor experiences define this end-of-the-world island

Anchoring the country at a latitude of 47° S, New Zealand’s often-overlooked 'third island' is a forested destination of primordial wilderness, featuring a verdant coastline of coves and bays, and native birdlife largely unencumbered by predators. The independent and resourceful human population numbers just 400.

Sea birds patrol the ocean, boisterous kākā (native parrots) enliven the sole settlement of Oban and the island's bush trails and remote beaches offer the rare opportunity to see New Zealand’s kiwi bird in the wild.

Rakiura National Park encompasses around 85% of Stewart Island/Rakiura, and the Rakiura Track, one of New Zealand’s Great Walks, provides a 39km (24 miles) two- to three-day walking adventure through some of the island’s untouched landscapes.

Equally spectacular are celestial displays of the Southern Lights (Aurora Australis), occasionally brightening long winter nights. These dancing illuminations give Stewart Island its traditional Māori name: Rakiura (Glowing Skies).

- remote islands

- unique birdlife

- dark-sky experiences

- hiking

- fishing and kayaking

- low-impact travel

Why go to Stewart Island/Rakiura? The island’s pin-up is the endemic and endangered tokoeka kiwi, which can often be seen snuffling along remote stretches of Rakiura's coastline, and are sometimes sighted crossing forested trails on the Rakiura Track.

Hiring a local guide is one of the best ways to explore Stewart Island’s fauna and the nearby bird sanctuary of Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara. Across on Ulva Island, a diverse avian chorus is underpinned by the rare tieke (South Island saddleback).

Snorkelling in the Ulva Island-Te Wharawhara Marine Reserve is another highlight, and kayaking and fishing are other ways to experience the island's cool, clear waters.

Minimal ambient light and light-pollution-free skies cleansed by southern breezes have also made Stewart Island a destination for stargazers. In 2019, it was designated the world's southernmost International Dark Sky Sanctuary.

Stewart Island's newest attraction is the rehoused Rakiura Museum/Te Puka o Te Waka, which opened in December 2020 in a swanky facility with exhibitions exploring the fascinating natural and cultural history of the island.

Departing from Bluff on the southern tip of New Zealand's South Island, ferries cross the occasionally rough waters of Foveaux Strait to Stewart Island (1hr).

There are also short 15-minute flights from Invercargill airport, 28km (17 miles) north of Bluff, and Invercargill is linked by domestic flights to New Zealand's main regional cities of Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch.

Stewart Island's changeable weather means visitors can experience all four seasons year-round, but the best chance for settled weather is during New Zealand's summer (Dec-Feb). Prime Aurora Australis viewing season is April to September.

Campsites and huts on the Rakiura Track must be booked ahead online with New Zealand's Department of Conservation (doc.govt.nz)

Free shuttle bus transfers are provided from Invercargill to the Bluff ferry terminal for ferry passengers

Stock up on camping supplies at Invercargill supermarkets and outdoor shops before travelling to the island.

Schedule your visit so you can attend Sunday night's pub quiz at the South Seas Hotel. Even Prince Harry took part when he was on Stewart Island.

Negotiate subtropical rainforest and coastal coves on the Rakiura Track, or take on the more challenging North West Circuit trail – both island highlights.

Stargaze after dark and admire the shimmering spectacle of the Aurora Australis amid Stewart Island's International Dark Sky Sanctuary, on a tour with Ruggedy Range (ruggedyrange.com).

Take an easy-going birdwatching stroll around Ulva Island wildlife sanctuary, home to forested and meandering trails.

Take an overnight adventure to see kiwi and other endemic birds in the verdant Freshwater Valley and on the isolated beaches of remote Mason Bay.

Depart from the sheltered waters of Paterson Inlet for fishing and kayaking adventures around Stewart Island's serrated coastline of bays and coves.

Set out on spectacular short walks, including day hikes to Port William or Māori Beach, before returning to cosy beds around Oban and Half Moon Bay.

I'm in awe of the islands' natural beauty and the daily thrill of seeing native birds and surprising marine life.

Predator-free Ulva Island is simply beautiful, with a primeval forest of towering trees, ferns and mosses, lovely beaches, and native and endangered birds that can be observed close-up.

Land birds can be seen year-round, but around February some species are moulting and may be hidden. Seabirds are best seen from January to September, while orchids and native flowers bloom from October to March. My favourite time to hike is definitely during the longer days of summer.