The ups and downs of the Cairns rainforest

What goes up must come down, they say, but in Cairns this comes with options. There are two memorable ways to head upward into the beautiful tropical rainforest of the mountain ranges west of the city.

An old favourite, the Kuranda Scenic Railway train, creaks and sways its way through dense foliage as it makes its way to or from the tourist town of Kuranda. Further north, the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway conveys visitors above the tree canopy and waterways as its gondolas head over the slopes, also connecting to Kuranda.

Which to choose? There’s no need, as a joint ticket enables a one-way trip on each on the same day. This is how I chose to do it.

This impressively low-impact cableway - constructed by lowering its towers in by air - starts at a base station in Smithfield in the city’s north. Via a shuttle bus transfer from my hotel I arrive with other nature-lovers at the gondola boarding point, watching them revolve slowly as people get on and off.

I need to wait for a particular one, however, as I’ve booked the Diamond View experience. Aside from priority boarding, this scores me one of the special gondolas that have glass floors and open windows, allowing a fuller immersion in nature.

As we take off, I brace myself for a bout of acrophobia (fear of heights). But there’s something so solidly reassuring about the green-toned car, and the scenery so mesmerising, that I’m soon focusing on the foliage I can see beneath my feet through a sturdy glass rectangle. Occasionally a downward car swooshes by on my right, with its occupants enjoying views over Cairns and the Pacific Ocean.

Skyrail is no mere fun-ride, but an informative experience within the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. At the first stop along the route, Red Peak, a free ranger tour is available to all passengers. As cheerful ranger Fred leads me along a sloping boardwalk through the surrounding jungle, he points out features such as a strangler fig which took over another tree halfway up its trunk; a basket fern in the branches of a host tree; a towering kauri that’s centuries old; and a fantastic view over Barron Gorge National Park.

Then it’s back to the cableway, for the second stretch to the Barron Falls stop. The highlight here is a view of the mighty Barron River as it falls down a rocky cliff face, enjoyed from a curving observation platform which is partly transparent.

One last ride above treetops and river, and I’m in Kuranda in time for lunch.

After a sandwich and coffee on Kuranda’s main street, I poke my nose in some art galleries and the visitor information centre. There are also nature sanctuaries to visit, featuring such creatures as butterflies, frogs and koalas - but my heart is set on a mechanical marvel, the heritage train of the Kuranda Scenic Railway.

Kuranda’s railway station is an old-school timber structure, decked out with tropical plants. The lush surrounds hint at the difficulties that railway workers encountered in carving a route here in the late 19th century, and that becomes even more apparent as the 3.30pm train departs.

Suddenly we’re plunged into rainforest, passing through deep cuttings and crossing bridges over streams. Near Barron Falls the railway crawls along the side of a mountain, with rock faces above and a sheer drop beneath. A ten-minute pause at Barron Falls Station allows passengers to get out, lean on the railings and take photos of the dramatic scene below. High above, on the other side of the river, I can make out the cableway I used in the morning.

We pass more rainforest, waterfalls, and many tunnels as the train heads down to Cairns, yielding views of city and sea. As I’m travelling in Gold Class (as opposed to the standard Heritage Class), there are also attractions within the carriage: a succession of tasty items being delivered by friendly attendant Aiko. These include macadamia nuts, a board of local cheeses, glasses of wine, and hot beverages. Sitting in low armchairs, beneath the curved pressed-tin roof and timber-lined carriage walls, we have the perfect venue for afternoon tea.

After two hours, we slide into Cairns Station, an unromantic concrete platform attached to a modern shopping mall. Never mind. It’s been a beautiful journey through stimulating scenery, and everything has its ups and downs.

The combined Skyrail and Kuranda Scenic Railway ticket costs A$119 (NZ$131) for adults (plus A$22 for Diamond View upgrade, and A$49 for Gold Class upgrade). See: or

Air New Zealand flies non-stop from Auckland to Cairns. See:

Novotel Cairns Oasis Resort is a comfortable place to stay, with a great pool. See:

Oaks Cairns Hotel is in a useful central location, and its rooftop bar has ocean views. See:

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