SH35: The road trip full of summer secrets

A road trip around East Cape is like driving back in time. Wedged between the Bay of Plenty and Gisborne, this region is full of stunning coastlines, remote beaches, and a proud cultural history.

The region was hit hard by Cyclone Gabrielle earlier this year, but it's now firmly back on its feet and is full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

We put aside four days for the trip, starting in Gisborne, then heading up the coast, past Ruatoria and Te Araroa around to Ōpōtiki, before taking the Waioeka Gorge back to Gisborne. Here's what you can't miss along the way.

One of the most affordable beachfront escapes in the country can be found just north of Gisborne at Tatapouri Bay.

The popular campsite has a series of seaside accommodation that ranges from tiny homes to zen cabins and even little villas. You can also book a hot tub – make sure to grab the sunrise slot. East Cape is amongst the first in the world to see the sun, and you can’t get better than experiencing it while soaking.

If you're a pie lover, you can't miss Tokomaru Bay's Café 35, which serves its iconic pāua pie. During the busy summer months, there will be queues waiting for fresh batches to emerge from the oven.

If you don't like seafood, they have an impressive range of red meat options, including boil-up pies. The café even serves pāua loaded fries – one of the few places in the world where you'll find this combo.

Don't miss an evening meal at Te Puka Tavern, the centre of gravity in Tokomaru Bay. The public house was first established in 1873 – and although it was rebuilt after Cyclone Bola in 1988 – it continues to be an icon of the coast.

Here, you can enjoy a hearty meal and lots of banter with the locals – it also offers affordable accommodation where you can fall asleep to the lapping waves.

Learn about the rich cultural history of the region with Tipuna Tours, run by locals who are full of stories passed down by the generations.

The Local History Tour includes a guided hike along the Cooks Cove Walkway, where Captain James Cook stopped in 1769. On the walk, you’ll learn about how tangata whenua interacted with the explorers.

While driving East Cape is spectacular, it's nothing compared to seeing it from above. Air Ruatoria is run by Mahanga Maru, a proud local and former Deputy Chief Executive of the Civil Aviation Authority.

Maru has his own little rustic "Koru Club" set up on the airfield, where you'll get a quick coffee before taking to the air.

The best of the scenic flights is the East Cape trip, which starts with majestic views of Hikurangi Maunga (Mount Hikurangi). This mighty mountain rises dramatically from the surrounding landscape, with its rugged peaks pushing upwards into the sky.

From there, it's out to Lottin Point, where you'll follow the turquoise coast all the way around to the East Cape Lighthouse before heading back towards Ruatoria, passing hills cloaked in native bush.

Maru will provide prayer, songs and fascinating facts as he flies you around the coast – this is much more than a scenic flight; it's a journey you'll remember for a lifetime.

Don't miss a refuelling stop East Cape Manuka Cafe. Here you'll find plenty of honey and natural products, like mānuka oils, creams and teas. Alongside this, there's plenty of yummy home cooking and great coffee.

One of the region's best hidden gems is the Lottin Point Motel. It sits four kilometres off the main highway, and you’ll feel blissfully isolated.

You'll find good old-fashioned motel rooms in a breathtaking location, with some of the best hospitality on the coast.

One of the Cape's most iconic landmarks is the Raukōkore Anglican Church.

Nestled down by the sea, framed by the mighty Raukūmara Range, this simple but beautifully crafted seaside church is a must-stop for anyone interested in photography.

In Whanarua Bay, you'll find a picturesque macadamia farm that’s home to the Nuthouse café, with lots of yummy treats like macadamia ice cream and slices. If you're a nut lover, this is a compulsory stop.

One of our favourite places to stay was Sheldrake Bnb. This dog-friendly escape feels like a luxury tree house suspended in native bush, with everything you need for a relaxing night.

Your hosts, Kathy and Terry, are some of the most welcoming people you’ll come across.

Your final stop is one to remember. Motu River Jet operates from the Motu River, a 35-minute drive east of Ōpōtiki.

The journey takes you into the remote Raukūmara Forest Park, where you can see some of the North Island's most untouched scenery.

Unlike the usual stomach-churning jet boat trips, this one focuses on the history and beauty of the mountains, allowing you to sit back and enjoy the view.

Gisborne has direct flights with Air NZ from Auckland and Wellington, with connections across the domestic network. See: . Gisborne is a roughly seven-hour drive from Wellington and Auckland.

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scenic flights from $350 per person. See:

from $110 per person. See: