Travel bites: The Greek fried cheese halloumi wishes it could be

It’s not controversial to say that the best part of a toastie is the crispy bit where escaping cheese burns against the pan. There’s just something so addictive about the way cheese caramelises and transforms a bland block of dairy into golden-brown glory.

Greek saganaki is a match made in heaven for lovers of the perfect cheese crust – and the halloumi fan’s next love affair.

Saganaki cheese is a crispy-yet-soft, savoury-yet-zesty, pan-fried cheese. It’s a common Greek side-dish, although it carries some Euro-Middle Eastern roots. The word “saganaki” refers to the small, two-handled pan used to fry the cheese. Even this name has origins in the Turkish copper pan, a sahan, and the Arabic sahn, meaning a small dish or plate.

What differentiates saganaki cheese from run-of-the-mill fried halloumi is subtle, but significant. Traditional saganaki cheese gets a light coating of olive oil and a dredging of flour, resulting in an even crispier surface when pan-fried.

The sheep or goat's cheese, usually kefalograviera, kasseri, or kefalotyri, can sometimes have a softer, less squeaky consistency than halloumi.

This cheese is fried until both sides are crispy and the middle starts to ooze slightly. Enjoy the cheese hot with a squeeze of lemon to balance the fat with acidity.

Considering the origin of the word saganaki, it’s no surprise that my first encounter was in Albania, which was previously part of the Ottoman Empire and heavily influenced by Greek cuisine. I ordered the dish as a side in a local-favourite restaurant in Saranda, so close to Greece you can see Corfu from the shore.

I expected a delicious but slightly rubbery cheese like halloumi. What I got was a slab of crispy, moreish fried cheese that popped with a little squeeze of lemon.

You can find saganaki cheese throughout Greece, and in places like southern Albania where Greek food is front and centre. In North American restaurants, it’s common to experience extra showmanship, with chefs igniting the dish flambé style at the table using brandy or ouzo.

If you’re in Auckland, QT Hotel’s Esther () restaurant features chef Sean Connolly’s Mediterranean favourites, including saganaki cheese. Connolly puts his twist on the dish, baking the kefalograviera cheese in the pan and covering it with honey and chilli to add a sweet and spicy spin in place of lemon.

At Costas Taverna () in Christchurch the saganaki arrives at the table engulfed in flames. The restaurant pours barrel-aged brandy over the kefalograviera before setting it alight and serving with lemon wedge and oregano.