My mission to find the best beach in the Greek Islands

More than once, I catch myself humming the theme song from Zorba the Greek. If a line of sirtaki dancers approached and beckoned me to join, I wouldn’t say no.

I toast the end of another perfect summer day with an Aegean Sea Breeze cocktail, a blend of ouzo, fresh grapefruit, honey and a pinch of salt.

Such is the good life on a Celebrity Cruises’ Greek Islands sailing, where the only worry is how quickly these longed-for days pass.

Some passengers have signed up for daily shore excursions to explore archaeological ruins that date back to the Bronze Age. Others spend their days making good use of the open bar, knocking back cold beers while marinating in one of the float pools cantilevered over the ocean. Not for me, not this time.

I’m on my own Greek odyssey, propelled by a love of sand, sun and saltwater, and aiming to find the best beach in every port we visit.

On a face-meltingly hot day in Mykonos, the only place to be is on or in water. I join a boat tour from the port to Paradise Beach, a trendy club beloved by influencers and the Euro-rich. The sunbeds cost a fortune, but the sea is still free, so we cool off while an unsmiling attendant keeps a close eye on us to fend off any unauthorised sitting.

Much more fun is jumping directly from the boat into the deep-blue Aegean Sea, a salty splash of exhilaration I know I’ll relive in my mind for years to come.

Tough choices await in lovely Santorini. With just a half-day to explore the Cyclades gem, I can loll about on Perissa’s black-sand beach, marvel at the earthy, volcanic hues of Red Beach or head to the hilltop town of Oia (pronounced Ee-a) for spectacular sunset views.

To Oia I go, climbing up narrow, rocky paths to reach the town’s summit. The view before me looks familiar, no doubt because 99% of the images of Santorini seen around the world are snapped right here. Whitewashed houses cling to the cliffs, flowering pink bougainvillea trees cascade down walls, while the brilliant blues of doors, sea and sky draw the eye and the lens. It’s a photographer’s dream.

In Rhodes, referred to by locals as Rodos, I spend the morning wandering around the World Heritage-recognised 14th century Old Town, getting lost in the narrow streets and tempting boutiques.

The afternoon is for vitamin sea and I find it at Faliraki, one of the best beaches in town. Now much more chilled than in its party-hard past, this golden-sand beach is a crowd-pleaser.

The biggest surprise on my quest for the ultimate beach day comes in Kefalonia. A relaxed, affordable island in the Ionian Sea, it’s a favourite summer holiday destination for Greek families and independent travellers.

For cruise passengers docked in the capital, Argostoli, it couldn’t be easier to get around. The local bus stops right by the port and goes direct to Makris Gialos Beach.

Many beaches in Greece are rocky or pebbly, the water too cold even in July. Makris looks like it could be in the Caribbean or Australia, with golden sand, undulating blue waves and welcoming water temps. Sun lounges and umbrellas here are a bargain compared to Mykonos, as are the restaurants and bars lining the sand. I spend the afternoon in the water, and could have happily stayed a week.

These halcyon days of exploring the islands are hungry work, building up an appetite that is satisfied and then some by Celebrity Beyond’s 32 food and beverage venues. The buffet is one of the best I’ve ever seen, overflowing with fresh seafood, local specialties and live-cooking stations.

On the last night, I make a booking at Cyprus Restaurant, a white-tablecloth venue devoted to feasting, Greek-style. Waiters bring out a lavish meal that includes hot melted saganaki cheese, grilled octopus and Cypriot short ribs. If I wasn’t already enamoured with the ship and the region, I certainly am now.

A nine-night cruise in the Mediterranean on Celebrity Ascent in May 2024 costs from $2859 a person, twin share. It departs from Athens (Piraeus) and stops at Santorini, Mykonos, Naples and more. Drinks, wi-fi and tips are included. See

Ocean and river cruising have an impact on the Earth's waterways. To reduce your impact, consider offsetting carbon emissions and booking with cruise lines that use cleaner fuels and adopt recycling practices.