Why I escaped NZ winter for two months on a Greek island

Autumn can be a depressing time of year, but 2023 has seen an even grimmer autumn than usual.

There’s been near-biblical flooding in the north, icy temperatures in the south, and a chronic shortage of UV the length and breadth of the country, .

Meanwhile everything’s eye-wateringly expensive and everyone seems perpetually on edge (these two things may be related). It’s all enough to make a person want to immediately book their escape, and in fact that’s exactly what I did.

Faced with the prospect of another winter in my single-glazed Christchurch home, I started Googling flights to Europe a few months ago. My criteria: somewhere warm and beautiful, with lots of interesting history, decent infrastructure for remote working, and at least semi affordable prices.

My ultimate destination: the Greek island of Crete. Turns out, Crete ticks every box – and a lot more besides. A month in, here’s what I’ve learned.

I spent the first few weeks in Kalamaki, a welcoming seaside resort on the outskirts of Chania, one of Crete’s main towns. Kalamaki is lovely, but it’s just one stop on a coastline featuring seemingly endless azure beaches, ranging in size from tiny deserted coves to long stretches of family-friendly golden sand.

It’s easy to spend days just chilling on the beach – I speak from experience here – but if you really want to experience the best of Crete’s breathtaking landscapes, you need to get active.

The Samaria Gorge is not only the longest gorge in Europe but also one of its most spectacular, and walking it is a must-do when you’re in Crete. While the route is downhill all the way, it’s a lengthy and somewhat arduous hike, especially in the heat of summer.

My tips: take your swimsuit so you can dive into the Mediterranean Sea at the walk’s end, and plan for a lazy following day – your calves are going to be crying for mercy by the time you finish.

Granted, it’s Greece, one of the western world’s oldest civilisations – of course Crete has a long and rich past to explore. But this island at the southern end of the Greek mainland has a history that isn't just ancient, it’s utterly unique.

Crete was home to the Minoans, considered by many to be the first civilisation anywhere in Europe, and among the best places to learn about them is at the ruined Knossos Palace, the Bronze Age capital of Minoan Crete.

The island’s more “recent” history includes Roman, Arabic and Byzantine rulers, four centuries as a colony of the Venetian Republic, and another two under Ottoman (Turkish) control. Much of this history lives on in the towns of Chania and Rethymno, their atmospheric, maze-like old towns and gorgeous harbour settings reminders of the important mediaeval trading ports they once were.

For all its beauty, Crete has a history that is blighted by violence, right up into the 20th century. New Zealanders played a key role in the Battle of Crete, particularly in the village of Galatas, where the heroics of NZ soldiers are commemorated by the “Neozilandon Polemiston” – Street of New Zealand Warriors.

At Souda Bay War Cemetery, just outside Chania, lie the remains of more than 600 Aotearoa servicemen, all killed in the 13-day battle to defend Crete from invading German forces.

As a former Christchurch resident, I thought I knew what a good chicken souvlaki tasted like. No shade to , but travelling in Crete has opened my eyes to the true glory of Greek fast food.

While souvlaki – marinated meat grilled on skewers – is commonplace, even more popular (and cheaper) are gyros, which are made with chicken or pork sliced from a rotisserie and stuffed into a toasted pita with salad, tzatziki and, always, French fries – yes, inside the bread. Restaurants here run the gamut from flashy waterfront dining to modest tavernas, often family-run.

Local specialities include boureki, a pie made with zucchini, potatoes and cheese, tsigariasto, a braised lamb or goat stew, and sfakianopites, raki-spiked cheese pastries served with honey.

In Chania, I went back multiple times to and , two popular eateries on the edge of the old town, where a generous, unfussy meal for one costs around NZ$20.

While it’s always tempting to spend the day wandering the Venetian waterfront or drinking excellent Cretan wine in some shady, bougainvillaea-covered courtyard bar, I’m actually here to work. As a and editor who also publishes a , my livelihood depends on a reliable internet connection.

Greece isn’t known for lightning-fast internet speeds, but in my experience the internet on Crete is really pretty good (though if you need to be on video calls all day it may be worth getting a speed test before booking accommodation).

While there are no trains on Crete, its developed tourist infrastructure means there are lots of buses, especially between Chania and Heraklion, the island’s capital; rental cars are plentiful.

Best of all? Compared to its smaller island neighbours – not to mention other southern European hotspots like Spain, Italy and Portugal – Crete is relatively affordable beyond all but the most touristy areas.

In a few weeks’ time I’ll be moving on. But right now, as wintry weather takes hold back home, Crete is about as close to paradise as I can get.