Butler's Quarters, Hawke's Bay: Off-grid bliss in the middle of nowhere

Travel News from Stuff - 30-01-2023 stuff.co.nz

There is a part of New Zealand few people have fully explored. It's a magical piece of the country between Napier and Dannevirke that's home to rolling hills, lush green pastures and charming small towns.

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I'm talking about the Central Hawke’s Bay and the area around a settlement called Pōrangahau, a small coastal village.

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From here, you can head about six kilometres southwest, and you’ll find the in the world: Taumata­whakatangihanga­koauau­o­tamatea­turi­pukaka­piki­maunga­horo­nuku­pokai­whenua­ki­tana­tahu.

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Just a few kilometres further is one of the country's newest off-grid escapes.

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It's proudly in the middle of nowhere – because it's a place where you can indulge in the rarest of luxuries: doing nothing at all.

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Andrew and Merys Butler moved from Wales to New Zealand with a dream: to live in the countryside.

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They eventually found paradise in the form of a 316-hectare rolling valley that is now home to their family farm.

The property has been farmed for more than 100 years, with one of the oldest buildings being a shearing shed that dated back to the early 1900s.

The Butlers hatched a plan to relocate the old shed to a stunning elevated part of the farm, where they would renovate and extend it – before opening for guests in late 2022.

The year-long renovation has resulted in an off-grid cabin that doesn't sacrifice luxury.

One of the common drawbacks with remote cabins is the lack of space to unwind – you often spend the day reading on the bed. Then sleeping on the bed, leading to a bit of cabin fever. This place has been designed exceptionally well, so you don’t suffer from that problem.

You have an outdoor lounge for relaxing, including a hanging egg chair. There’s also an outdoor bath that’s one of the best places to be during sunset.

Inside, there’s another lounge – where you can enjoy the view no matter the weather. There's also a fire to keep you warm in the colder months.

This cabin has a flushing toilet, full bathroom and kitchen, including fridge, microwave, toaster and kettle. It’s a pretty impressive setup considering the cabin is solar-powered. But it uses the latest technology, thanks to Andrew being an electrician.

With a full kitchen and barbecue, it's easy to prepare a meal - you'll also find a few basics in the pantry, such as oil and salt and pepper.

We tried the fish and chips down at Pōrangahau, which were cheap and tasty - and there's also a pub there too.

If you want to explore the area, ask your hosts if a farm walk is possible – it will depend on farm conditions and stock. The top of the farm has exceptional views around the hinterland.

Pōrangahau Beach is a short drive away, and on a sunny day is perfect for swims, walks and even fishing. The village also has a nine-hole golf course.

If the weather is stormy, the cabin is a great place to hunker down with a fire, board games, cards, and books to enjoy.

The perfect off-grid escape if your main priority is relaxation.

The location doesn't have cellphone reception, which is refreshingly rare - and gives you no choice but to switch off. The outdoor bath is also a blissful place to unwind.

I couldn't fault it.

The Butler's Quarters is a one-hour 30-minute drive from Napier or around four hours' drive from Wellington. Air New Zealand has flights from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch to Napier, with connections across the domestic network. See:

In winter, a 4WD is recommended to access the cabin along the one-kilometre farm track. However, if you are in a 2WD car, the hosts are very happy to run you up in their 4WD free of charge.

A night at Butler's Quarters starts from $300. A minimum two-night stay applies.

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